Our first BIG trip after our move to Germany was to Tuscany, the spring of 2009. The Hubs wanted to do something special for me (and the kiddos – but mostly, me), since it had been an emotional and draining move/transition. He also wanted to show us just how close we are to so many amazing places. It was a well-played move!
We hadn’t truly planned the exactly what we would do on this holiday… we knew we would first stop in Pisa and then drive to Massa Marittima – where we would be staying. Other than that, we only knew of a few cities we wanted to visit and of course do a bit of wine tasting as well.
Pisa was my first Italian city ever to visit. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but, I wasn’t really impressed. Don’t get me wrong – the Leaning Tower and adjacent buildings (Cathedral and baptistery) were stunning, but the rest of the city left something to be desired. Needless to say, we drove in, saw the Leaning Tower of Pisa (and the leaning tree and garbage can – which our then youngest fondly remembers to this day!) and were on our way, we had several hours of driving ahead of us.
After an hour and a half of driving, we made it to Massa Marittima to set up base camp. We arranged our condo in Massa with Reisebüro Venus Lufthansa City Center in Regensburg. We were staying preseason at VentaClub Borgo Pian d. Mucini, so the pool wasn’t open and there were only one or two other families staying there at the time. We had two balconies, a kitchen/family room, two bedrooms and a bathroom with shower. It was perfect – and the view was amazing! The management, though, left something to be desired, very rude and did not want to approve the breakfast (which was included in the cost). Needless to say, we did not eat any meals there – we ate in Massa or on the balcony of our condo. If you don’t have to deal with the management – it’s a lovely place to stay.
Our first road trip was to Siena (on Palm Sunday)- about an hour or so through twisting roads up and down the hillside. We were all happy to jump out of the car, helloooo car sickness, and explore! We parked in the “snail” district and started the trek towards the Duomo. Along the way, we passed what was either the stable or church in the Snail Contrada.
You see, Siena is divided into 17 districts, each represented by a different animal. (The explanation below is from Contrade of Siena – Wikipedia, the Free Encyclopedia)
These districts were set up in the Middle Ages in order to supply troops to the many military companies that were hired to defend Siena as it fought to defend its independence from Florence and other nearby city states. As time has gone by, however, the contrade have lost their administrative and military functions and have instead become simply areas of localised patriotism, held together by the emotions and sense of civic pride of the residents. Their roles have broadened so that every important event – baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories at the Palio, even wine or food festivals – is celebrated only within one’s own contrada.
Every contrada has its own museum, fountain and baptismal font, motto, allied contrada (only Oca has no allies) and adversary contrada, typically a neighbor (only four, Bruco, Drago, Giraffa and Selva, have no declared adversaries). Often the adversary contrade share borders.
Another interesting tidbit about Siena is the legend of its founding. According to legend, Senius, the son of Remus (whose brother was Romulus – and founded Rome) founded the city. Therefore, you will see statues of the She-wolf and young Romulus and Remus throughout the city.
After a bit of an uphill walk, we laid eyes on the colorful and beautiful Duomo di Siena. The Cathedral, dating back to 1215, is quite large and made of gleaming marble and layered in black and white. We were fortunate that we arrived just before Palm Sunday Mass began – so of course, we attended! Though we could not fully understand the Italian, we were able to follow, as the routine of Mass doesn’t change much. What was interesting though, rather than given blessed palms – we were given blessed olive branches! Seems a bit more appropriate in the olive covered Tuscan countryside!
We explored the rest of the city – finding fruit to snack on and absolutely delicious gelato to indulge in at Gelateria Kopakabana!
Of course, it’s not possible to visit Siena and not go to Piazza del Campo! This beautiful, large, open square was full of people – soaking up the sun, having a snack or just taking a break. Our kiddos enjoyed chasing pigeons and the Hubs and I were in awe of our surroundings. We walked the entire Piazza and found ourselves at a little restaurant, eating a bit of pizza and people watching.
Piazza del Campo is more than just a sunbathers paradise, it is also the site of the Palio of Siena. This horse race occurs twice a year, July 2 and August 15. Ten horses and riders, representing the 17 districts, race around il Campo three times bare back. The event is world-famous and full of emotion – as it is very competitive between the districts. Pageantry, passion, drama… what more could one ask for?
Be sure to stop by next Friday – for the rest of our visit to Tuscany… Massa Marittima, Piombino, Volterra and San Gimignano! Amazing restaurants, hidden gems and amazing countryside await…
My 3 Tartlets 